Choosing crochet yarn can feel overwhelming when you are faced with a wall of colours, weights and fibres. The good news is that you only need to understand a few simple ideas to pick the right crochet yarn for almost any project.
Read on for UK yarn weights and their US equivalents, the main fibres and what they are good for, how to read a ball band, why dye lots matter and how much yarn to buy. We also suggest the best type of yarn for popular projects, and which yarns to skip while you are still learning.
What makes a good crochet yarn?
Almost any yarn can be crocheted, but some are much easier to work with than others. A good crochet yarn for most projects has a few things in common.
- Smooth texture: so you can see each stitch and the hook slides in easily.
- Firm twist: a yarn made of several plies twisted together does not split as easily when the hook goes through it.
- Light or medium colour: stitches are much easier to see in a pale or bright shade than in black or navy.
- Suitable care: a yarn that can be washed in the way the finished item will need, for example machine washable for a blanket or baby item.
Beyond that, the right choice depends on the weight (thickness) of the yarn, the fibre it is made from and what you are making. We look at each of these below.
Crochet yarn weights: UK names and US equivalents
Yarn weight means how thick the strand is, not how heavy the ball is. In the UK we usually describe weight with names like 4ply, DK, aran and chunky. American patterns use different names, and many ball bands also show a number from 0 to 7 from the Craft Yarn Council yarn weight system.
The table below shows the most common UK weights with their closest US names and typical hook sizes. Hook sizes are a starting point only. Always check the ball band and your pattern, and change hook size if your fabric is too stiff or too loose.
| UK weight | Closest US name | Yarn weight number | Typical hook size | Good for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 4ply | Fingering or sport | 1 or 2 | 2.5mm to 3.5mm | Socks, shawls, fine baby items, small amigurumi |
| DK (double knitting) | Light worsted | 3 | 3.5mm to 4.5mm | Blankets, amigurumi, baby items, garments |
| Aran | Worsted or aran | 4 | 4.5mm to 5.5mm | Hats, scarves, cushions, warm blankets |
| Chunky | Bulky | 5 | 6mm to 8mm | Quick hats, cowls, ear warmers, baskets |
| Super chunky | Super bulky | 6 | 9mm and larger | Very quick throws, cushions, rugs |
Weight names are not an exact science. One DK can be a little thicker or thinner than another, so two yarns with the same name will not always swap perfectly. If you are changing the yarn in a pattern, compare the metres per 100g and the suggested tension on the ball band.
You may notice that the Craft Yarn Council hook ranges run slightly larger than the hooks UK crocheters often use. Many DK ball bands in the UK suggest a 4mm hook, for example. Both are fine starting points. For more on hook sizes and conversions, see our crochet hooks guide.
Which crochet yarn weight should a beginner use?
We recommend DK or aran for your first projects. These weights are thick enough to see each stitch clearly, but not so bulky that the yarn is hard to handle. A 4mm or 5mm hook is a comfortable size to hold, and you will find a huge range of colours in both weights.
Very thin 4ply crochet yarn can be fiddly at first, and very thick super chunky yarn can be tiring on the hands and makes it hard to see where to put your hook.
Crochet yarn fibres: pros and cons
The fibre a yarn is made from changes how it feels, how it behaves on the hook, how warm it is and how you wash it. Here are the fibres you will see most often.
Acrylic
Acrylic is a synthetic fibre and is the most common crochet yarn for beginners and for everyday projects.
- Pros: widely available in many colours, usually machine washable, light, hard-wearing and kind to the budget. Good for blankets, toys and practice.
- Cons: less breathable than natural fibres, can feel squeaky on the hook, and can be flattened by heat, so never iron it directly.
Cotton
Cotton is a plant fibre that is smooth, cool and absorbent. Cotton crochet yarn is a favourite for kitchen and summer makes.
- Pros: very clear stitch definition, absorbent, strong and washable. Ideal for dishcloths, coasters, bags, summer tops and amigurumi.
- Cons: has very little stretch, so it can be harder on the hands. Items can feel heavy and may shrink slightly in a hot wash.
Wool
Wool comes from sheep and is the classic warm, natural fibre. A good wool crochet yarn is lovely for hats, scarves and garments.
- Pros: warm, springy and elastic, which makes it forgiving for uneven tension. It blocks beautifully and keeps its shape.
- Cons: many wool yarns must be hand washed or they will felt and shrink. Some people find wool itchy, and some are sensitive to it.
Look for “superwash” on the ball band if you want a wool that can go in the washing machine on a wool cycle.
Blends
Blended crochet yarn mixes two or more fibres, such as wool and acrylic, or cotton and acrylic.
- Pros: combine the best of each fibre, for example the warmth of wool with the easy care of acrylic. Often a very good all-round choice.
- Cons: care instructions vary, so always check the ball band.
Bamboo
Bamboo yarn is a type of viscose made from bamboo plants.
- Pros: very soft, silky and drapey, with a lovely sheen. Nice for summer garments and shawls.
- Cons: slippery on the hook, can split, and the fabric can stretch and grow when worn or washed. Better for your second or third project than your first.
The best crochet yarn for each type of project
Once you know the basics of weight and fibre, matching crochet yarn to a project becomes much easier. Here is a quick guide.
| Project | Suggested weight | Suggested fibre | Why |
|---|---|---|---|
| Amigurumi (toys) | DK or aran | Cotton or acrylic | Clear stitches and a firm fabric that holds stuffing |
| Blankets | DK, aran or chunky | Acrylic, wool blend | Soft, warm and easy to wash |
| Baby items | 4ply or DK | Soft acrylic, cotton or superwash wool | Gentle on skin and easy to wash |
| Dishcloths and coasters | DK or aran | Cotton | Absorbent, strong and washable at higher temperatures |
| Garments | 4ply, DK or aran | Wool, cotton or blends | Good drape, comfort and breathability |
Amigurumi
For toys, work a firm fabric with a hook a size or two smaller than the ball band suggests, so the stuffing does not show through. Cotton and acrylic both work well. Our guide to crochet animals has lots of ideas. For toys for babies and young children, embroider the eyes rather than using safety eyes or buttons.
Blankets
A blanket uses a lot of yarn and will be washed often, so choose a soft crochet yarn that is machine washable. Acrylic and wool blends are popular. Our easy crochet blanket and granny stripe blanket both use DK.
Baby items
Choose soft, smooth crochet yarn that can be machine washed. Avoid fluffy or hairy yarns that can shed fibres, and avoid anything scratchy. Keep designs simple, with no loose buttons, beads or long ties.
Dishcloths and coasters
Cotton is the clear winner here because it absorbs water and copes with hot washes. Acrylic tends to push water around rather than soak it up.
Garments
For clothes, drape and comfort matter more. Wool and wool blends are warm and forgiving, while cotton and bamboo suit lighter summer pieces. Always make a tension square, because the size of the garment depends on it.
How to read a crochet yarn ball band
The paper label around a ball of yarn is called the ball band. It holds everything you need to know, so keep at least one band from every project.
- Weight and length: for example 100g and 280m. The metres per 100g is the best way to compare two yarns.
- Fibre content: for example 100% acrylic, or 75% acrylic and 25% wool.
- Yarn weight: such as DK, sometimes with a number from the yarn weight system.
- Suggested hook or needle size: many bands show a knitting needle size, a crochet hook size, or both.
- Tension: how many stitches and rows make a 10cm square. This is often given for knitting, so use it as a guide only.
- Care symbols: washing temperature, whether to tumble dry, iron or dry clean.
- Shade and dye lot numbers: the colour code and the batch the yarn was dyed in.
Why dye lots matter
Crochet yarn is dyed in batches, and each batch is called a dye lot. Even when the shade name is the same, two dye lots can be very slightly different. You might not see it in the shop, but you can often see a line across a blanket where one lot ends and the next begins.
To avoid this, buy all the yarn for one colour in a project at the same time, and check that the dye lot number on each ball band matches. If you do have to mix lots, change at the end of a row and work a few rows alternating the old and new balls so the change is more gradual.
How much crochet yarn to buy
A good pattern tells you how much yarn you need. The safest way to buy is by length, not by number of balls, because different yarns have different metres per ball.
- Find the total metres given in the pattern for your size.
- Check the metres per ball on the yarn you want to use.
- Divide the total metres by the metres per ball, and round up.
- Add one extra ball for larger projects, especially if your tension is looser than the pattern.
For example, if a pattern needs 1,000m and your yarn has 280m per ball, 1,000 divided by 280 is about 3.6, so you need 4 balls, and 5 would give you a safe margin.
If you are designing your own project, crochet a 10cm square swatch and weigh it on kitchen scales. Multiply that weight by the number of 10cm squares in your finished piece to get a rough total, then add 10% to 15% for the border, joins and tails.
Yarn to avoid as a beginner
Some crochet yarn is beautiful but hard to learn with. Save these for later.
- Very dark colours: black and navy hide your stitches, making them hard to count.
- Fluffy and eyelash yarns: mohair, faux fur and eyelash yarns hide the stitches and are very hard to undo.
- Bouclé and textured novelty yarns: loops and bumps make it difficult to find where the hook should go.
- Splitty yarns: loosely twisted or single-ply yarns can split as you work.
- Very thin yarns: lace weight and thread need tiny hooks and lots of patience.
- Super slippery fibres: silk and some bamboo yarns can slide off the hook.
Start with a smooth, light coloured DK or aran crochet yarn. Once you can read your stitches, you can try anything.
Storing your crochet yarn
Store crochet yarn somewhere clean, dry and out of direct sunlight, which can fade colours. Lidded boxes or cloth bags keep dust out. Wool should be protected from moths, so check your stash now and then and keep it in sealed containers.
Keep the ball band with any leftover yarn so you always know what it is and how to wash it. Leftover yarn is perfect for small crochet projects such as coasters, flowers and hearts.
Choosing yarn for a garment? Our crochet cardigan pattern explains why a soft aran wool blend works best.
Frequently asked questions about crochet yarn
What is the best crochet yarn for beginners?
A smooth, light coloured DK or aran yarn in acrylic, cotton or a blend. It shows each stitch clearly, does not split easily and is comfortable to work with a 4mm to 5mm hook.
Is DK the same as light worsted?
DK is usually treated as the UK equivalent of US light worsted, number 3 in the yarn weight system. Yarns vary, so compare metres per 100g and tension before swapping.
Can I use knitting yarn for crochet?
Yes. There is no separate yarn for knitting and crochet. Any yarn labelled for knitting can be crocheted. Just choose a suitable hook size, which may be different from the needle size on the band.
What hook size should I use with DK yarn?
Most UK DK yarns work well with a 4mm hook, and a 3.5mm to 4.5mm range is common. Use a smaller hook for firm fabric like amigurumi, and a larger one for a softer, drapier blanket.
Why do I need to match dye lots?
Each batch of dyed yarn can differ slightly in colour. Balls from different dye lots may look the same in the shop but show a visible line in the finished piece, so buy enough from one lot.
